Klein Cedarberg

The highland nature conservancy of the Koue Bokkeveld is a very special area of South Africa, not yet discovered by most tourists (including Capetonians), despite its proximity to the Mother City. The rolling tablelands and mountains are strewn with fascinating sandstone rock formations and even snow in winter. And right in the middle of all that nature-sculpted rock is Klein Cederberg, the home of Werner and Vikki Wullschleger and their son Nik. (Nik is the mapmaker for this book by the way.) When I last stayed here I was treated to an evening light display that would make Jean-Michel Jarre rethink his next show. A huge sunset, followed by full moon and stars, with a low wall of cloud on one horizon undergoing a frenzied electrical storm.

There is a special quality to the air here, because you are nearer the heavens. Guests stay in stone cabins, three have fireplaces and each has its own protected terrace. The small stone houses blend into the surrounding landscape, where nary a man-made object jars the senses. There are ostriches in a field by the house, and a major attraction is Werners daily Bushman rock art tour. I must make mention also of the fruit trees that surround the house. The grapes and nectarines that I was handed straight from the bough made me realise that I had never eaten fruit before! Closed July.